Part of the problem was settling the gap on the shoes. It led me to find that the calipers are offset enough that it needed to be shifted outboard by quite a bit. The easiest way is to mill a few thousandths off the mounting pad for the caliper to move it out. Easy enough, but I don’t have a mill. Started looking at some that I might be able to buy used or even some the cheap crap from Harbor Freight. I’ve been scanning for a few months but have yet to find one used that wasn’t a professional one that was several thousand dollars. So I looked at the HF ones online but the stores around here don’t carry them. Not sure its the best use of a good amount of cash, but its difficult to say.
I bought the mill set bits at HF and decided to see if I could use them on the drill press I have. Its going to take a bit of work to build a fixture and a way to manipulate it easily to mill off the amount that needs to come off. Started playing with that this evening but ran out of useful ideas on how to do so. Will stop by Sears or HF again and see if I can find something inexpensive to make it happen. In the mean time, I’ll see if I can make due with what I have and build a fixture. I’d really like to get this thing all settled in…….
Hopefully a solution is discovered tomorrow. Happy New Year!
I posted a couple pics of the Chevelle and got an email from someone who was looking at the pictures over on that site asking what suspension I was using. Specifically, the sway bars.
Back in the late 80s early 90s, Herb Adams was the king of suspension. At the time he sold his product direct through his own company but also sold through Moroso. It helped him reach a little broader market and I think helped his brand out a little.
Those are what I’m using on the Chevelle front and rear. The fronts were a little revolutionary at the time in they had heim joint ends. They were MASSIVE bars. It was thought at the time that it was the best and easiest way to get the roll under control on these big heavy A bodies. Very cool stuff. Not sure how much longer they will be on the car. Most likely the suspension will get upgraded on the next upgrade for that car.
Going to get the Chevelle site updated. Its been a few years since I’ve done anything with it and over the past couple of years I have actually gotten a few things done when I have been able to get back to where its stored in Kansas City. If you get a chance, check it out!
It never ceases to amaze me. On this lovely 1967 El Camino or any other car I’ve built from the ground up. The seemingly endless amount of wiring that has to take place. One exciting thing about where I am now. There is light at the end of the tunnel. The engine side is really done other than running the hot and ground wires. All the rest will occur when I’m ready to finally button it all down for the last time after the new engine goes in.
The interior is another story. There are some connections to be made. A hot that needs to be run through the bulkhead and to the battery. Some connections to be made and some zip ties to cinch it all down with.
Well it didn’t take too long to figure out. I wanted to put it in the center console, but didn’t want to lose the useable space. I wanted to put it further back, but the harness wasn’t long enough and I have some stereo equipment it would have interfered with. Still considered under the gauge console, but that would lead to a complicated mess trying to get to the data port for tuning and data logging. So, this is where its going to go. I don’t think its going to interfere too much with any passengers. The bad this is its exposed where its at, but I can live with it for now. I suppose I can always change it later.
Peeking a little closer at the main harness, it has changed my plans on where everything is going to go.
The bulkhead grommet is part of the harness and is in the upper half of the harness. On the top side of the photo is the engine connectors. On the bottom of the photo is the connections made inside the cab of the El Camino. There is far more length that might push the ECU further back and even possibly into the storage compartment of the console. Rather interesting. I’m going to need to investigate if I can put it there and not interfere with the stereo amp witch is located under the console all the way in the back. I need to make sure there is no interference with the wires being in such close proximity. FAST warns of this in conjunction with other things so its worth the time to check this out before I make a decision. I’d rather not lose the center console storage compartment, but it would make it very easy to get to when it comes to tuning. The coil to the left is the main power supply which will be a big help because the battery is in the bed’s smugglers compartment and make it very easy to get this back to its location.
Most tomorrow! This is looking WAY easier than I thought it was going to be.
Time to start routing the XFI main harness. Thankfully this thing is mostly preterminated. Less for me to screw up! ECU is now sitting on top of the trans tunnel and will be covered by the newly made gauge console.
Wishing everyone a very Merry Christmas! Thanks for all the support over the years on this blog and my YouTube channel. Its been a lot of fun for sure. Appreciate all the kind comments and questions. Makes this an even better experience for me and I hope its made for an enjoyable one for you as well.
Got an email asking about the sound control product(s) I used on this project.
I had about half a Dynamat kit left over and it was enough to cover the floor, trans tunnel, and up the firewall just a little.
I did however need some for the rear bulkhead and the ceiling and decided to spray Lizardskin on both. I like how it turned out. Fairly sure I’ll be doing this in the future. Eager to see (or hear) how the Lizard skin does on those areas.